Bali

Among the incredible surfing, clubs, and malls (none of which I took part in) lies one of the most incredible destinations on earth; the island of Bali. I have been fortunate enough to be able to spend just under two weeks on the island throughout the month of June. I spent nine days traveling around with my Mom in the beginning of June, and have just recently returned from a three day volunteering trip through EF and UNESCO.

Bali has an abundance of touristic amenities but venturing off the beaten trail (gotta love that expression) will help bring the local culture into a much better perspective as well as lead you to sites, views, temples, and people that will undoubtedly make a lasting impression on you.

As I often do, perhaps because of excitement or because I can’t imagine waking up so early, I stayed up all night for my 6 am flight. There’s no remedy for exhaustion like sleeping on a beautiful beach all day while your Mom brings you beer. It really helps you appreciate Mother’s day.

The next morning I’d say we fell into what you may call the “proverbial tourist trap,” you know ‘Oh this sounds awesome!’ We’ll go to an island called Turtle Island and swim with turt… Oh It’s the most tourist friendly, mini zoo in the world. Oh and it isn’t even an island! We just drove there on a boat so most people would feel it suffices as an island in some capacity, though  I assure you, we were still on the mainland. However, playing with animals is fucking awesome so I wasn’t too bothered. Not to mention anytime you can have fish eat the dead skin, callouses, and other disgusting bacteria you’ve accumulated on your toes, you just have to do it. Oh, and it feels AMAZING.

After relaxing on a beach nestled in between rock formations, a photo from the bridge seemed more than appropriate.

Having a sunset dinner on the beach after the second day.

This is Kuta. Known for being extremely busy with vendors, tourists and too many people. Perhaps we came on a good day, but it was fairly calm and although the vendors were quite frequent, it was never too bad..

These two photos from below are from Blue Point Beach. This beach is just North of the famous Uluwatu Temple. The trail to get to the beach was incredible and at the bottom there were small pools of water that were perfectly refreshing.

We left Blue Point and headed to Uluwatu, oh and we found some of these guys on the way.

Sure, they look cute...

I got really lucky to capture this guy, mid yawn, with the holiest part of the area in the background. 

Uluwatu Temple is on the most Southwestern tip of Bali with the Indian Ocean on one side, and the Pacific on the other. If you headed due south for a fair bit of time you could also run into a place some call “Antarctica.” You must wear a sarong before you can’t enter and they had a number of sarongs that you could borrow without having to purchase one.

Uluwatu is filled with monkeys. They really are a bunch of savages, cute perhaps, but they can be horrendous.  At one point my Mom and I were posing for a photo and her friend Traci was about to snap a photo when My Mom let out a yelp:

“Traci!”

Traci turned around and saw a half dozen monkeys next to her feet. She jumped and the monkeys promptly stole one of her thongs. On cue, an Indonesian lady selling fruit to feed the monkeys walked over threw some fruit at the lot of them and stepped on the sandal. She proceeded to pick it up, and say ‘Dua ribu’ (two thousand rupiah, or the equivalent to about 23 cents) no need to negotiate lady you got yourself a deal!

Uluwatu with the sunset in the background, truly amazing.

Rice paddies are seemingly everywhere in the Balinese countryside.

Pura Tanah Lot temple...

Renting a motorbike is an absolute must in Bali. I rented one in Nusa Dua which is in the Southeastern pocket of the island. From there I headed up through Kuta, Denpasar and then veered left to see one of Bali’s most famous sites ‘Pura Tanah Lot.’ This temple is not always accessible from land. Depending on the tide, and the season, you may have to settle for a picture from a restaurant with a view overlooking the temple. Though not a bad alternative, and a must, walking up to the temple and exploring its inner beauty is phenomenal experience. This was actually my favorite temple in Bali. The area is filled with tiny shops, and restaurants, and more but as you walk down the stairs onto the beach it feels as if you’ve removed yourself from that entirely. 

Central Bali

We left Nusa Dua, I don’t know perhaps the 6^th of June and arrived in Ubud. Ubud has long been known as Balis cultural capital. It serves as a mini metropolis for the people residing in villages, and towns throughout the center of the island and away from the coasts. Woodcarving, painting, sculpting and more types of art can be witnessed as you walk through the streets. Ubud is an amazing area. Seemingly millions of miles from Kuta or Nusa Dua beach yet in reality, just north. The rice paddies, lakes, mountains and temples that surround this region are nothing short of breathtaking.

We took a car up near Lake Batur and Kintamani Mountrain. Though at the time we wereblanketed by a thick fog we recommitted to cycling from Kintamani to Ubud. Through local celebrations, small towns, and wonderful countryside, we made our way 20 km down the mountain to Ubud. Giant Spiders, friendly people, and of course sunshine, helped pave the way.

The following day I again elected to rent a motorbike. From here I drove North to Kintamani, and then East around Lake Batur, South to visit the Besakih mother temple of Bali, and then south west through Denpasar and finally north to Ubud. Besakih is the oldest temple in Bali. The collection of temples and buildings within Besakih are gorgeous. The ancient Hindu architecture in Bali truly is astounding. 

On the UNESCO trip we were constantly busy. First we arrived at the airport at 7 am on Sunday June 24^th

We headed directly to the beach where we did some team building activities. Later in the day we released baby turtles from the beach and planted coral. I was more enthusiastic about this than the kids were because baby turtles are cute as hell. I didn’t have my camera on me but, trust me, they are. It was also fantastic because all of these girls in my group were like “Mr. Tony I don’t want to touch them, can you put them in the water” and as if I’d been waiting my whole life for the opportunity I started freeing the **** out of those turtles.

The next day we visited what will hopefully soon become an UNESCO World Heritage site; the Rice Paddies in Jatiluwih. There we witnessed a Hindu prayer, learned how to harvest the rice, and witnessed a wonderful display of Balinese dance, music, art, and food.

On the third day had us playing games, and laying around the beach. Two things I am very good at. All in all it was a fantastic experience and I appreciate the opportunity that EF, and UNESCO put together for the volunteers. 

Krakatau

I never could have imagined such an incredible place. In 1883 a volcano (Rakata), lying in the Sunda Strait between the Java and Sumatra islands, exploded. This produced the loudest noise that had ever been recorded on Earth. Some say it could be heard as far east as Central Australia and as far North as China or Mongolia. The sound was about 15 times as loud as the atomic bomb the Americans dropped on Hiroshima. The eruption did not just cause the loudest sound Earth had ever bear witness too, it also created life; three new islands. The three areas of land have since grown into decent sized islands with flourishing wildlife.

To get to Krakatau we left from Anyer beach on the coast of West Java. Anyer is about three or four hours west of Jakarta depending on the traffic. Our boat departed around 11 am and we arrived at Krakatau for lunch and we’re joined by some unwelcome guests who didn’t exactly keep their space.

Large monitor lizards patrol Rakata Island itself as we witnessed during our lunch. The islands as a group are called Krakatau but the island that erupted is called Rakata. It’s hard to imagine these lizards surviving such an explosion but they were certainly present. Nearly 4,000 people died and the deafening boom, and debris annihilated the wildlife that was there. Not long after, grass, and trees began growing. Today animals, birds, insects, and lizards call the area home. How did they get there? That’s one of a number of questions surrounding Krakatau.

It's hard to imagine a more beautiful color of water, and on an abandoned island to boot...... Paradise.

Rakata from the boat as we head to Anak Krakatau.

Anak Krakatau from the boat.

After snorkeling we boarded the boat and headed to one of the 20th century’s great natural creations, and mysteries, Krakatau’s child (Anak Krakatau.) Anak Krakatau was created in the aftermath of Rakata’s eruption and it has been existence since 1927. The island is home to a sensational collection of fauna and flora. Luscious green plants, beautiful trees, huge lizards, insanely beautiful black sand beaches as well as rock formations and sediment resembling areas of Kona Hawai’I cover the small island. What’s more is that on the North side of the island there lies some phenomenal aquatic wildlife that is nestled against the rocky perimeter. Giant clams, needlefish, and creatures I couldn’t describe even if I tried, fill the area.

These long dents are imprinted on the islands surface, similar to empty riverbeds. What was flowing here?

Hiking Anak Krakatau and seeing its mother!

Win, scaling the mini mountain like a champion...

From near the top of the Volcano you can check out this breathtaking view of the Volcano that rocked the world......

A beautiful sunset...

Fascinating rock formations fill one side of the island. Snorkels up!

The island is getting bigger, about five inches per day and also getting taller each year. The volcano remains active and camping near its base, on a beautiful beach in the Sunda Strait, was an experience I’ll always remember.

Sampai nanti! Until later Krakatau... What a beautiful place...

The Dieng Plateau

                                

The biodiversity and seemingly unlimited number of different languages and cultures make Indonesia beyond unique in so many ways. This never seemed more evident than when I was peering out my window on the bus from Jakarta to Central Java. Central Java is famous for its rich Buddhist, and Hindu temples, gorgeous landscape, mountains, and a rustic charm that warmed my heart from the moment I arrived. Throughout Java the one striking similarity you find  is the humble, hardworking, friendly and devout Muslims. However, aside from that There was nothing that would have convinced you that Jakarta and Dieng were part of the same country. A treacherous fifteen hour bus ride into the heart of Java will bring you to Wonosobo. As you can see in the upper right we hopped in the back of a truck and drove an hour north into the Dieng Plateau. Along with my house mate Richy and a great group of Universitas Indonesia students we were excited to have arrived. In the very center of one of the most densely populated regions on earth you will find small towns and sheer beauty.

  

On the right is Telana Warna Dieng or I think many color pond Dieng. This large pond or small lake, is essentially a mix of different shades of blue. It goes from teal, to turquoise, to navy blue, and although it is not hot hot like some of the hot springs we saw in Dieng, it's certainly very warm. Below here are two of many statues around the lake. The one on the right being of a Hindu God and a nod to Diengs Hindu past, perhaps Shiva. The one on the left, although confusing, and I'm not sure if is an idol (someone help?) I wanted to take it home. Surrounding the lake are a number of caves that were likely meant for private meditation or for worship.

It's difficult to be excited about waking up at three am when you get virtually no sleep at all the night before but for the view of this sunset it had to be done. A 45 minute drive in the back of the truck led us to this lake above, appropriately named Tadpole lake or Danau Cebong due to the wildlife it is home to. This picture below was taken after we hiked up the top of a peak to get a view of the sunrise overlooking Dieng and a mountain whose name I've conveniently forgotten and I just can't be bothered looking it up or asking somebody who went with us.

Throughout our return to Dieng we couldn't help but marvel at the natural beauty that encompasses the region. As you can see on the upper right photo, you often find yourself on such high ground that you can look down on the clouds. Also, no, those terraces on the side of the mountains are not natural, those are made so that the farmers can grow plants more efficiently, prevent landslides and have an easier time moving up and down the terrain to transport goods.They are a mesmerizing sight, one that forces a smile as you admire the serenity while appreciating the people of Central Java. 

Four children on a motor bike. Let's all agree that while this probably isn't legal, safe, or okay, it was pretty difficult not to laugh and throw up a peace sign in their direction.

The Dieng Temple Complex above has five beautiful old temples that have for the most part been preserved quite well. Though much smaller than Borobudur in Jogjakarta they were certainly impressive.

Out of many hot springs in Dieng these were the stinkiest, scariest, and the hottest. You walk past a number of vendors to make your way into an area surrounded by gorgeous rocks and the rocks appear as a gentleman with a tint of amber in his beard smoking a pipe in the countryside. 

As you walk closer you'll witness a giant pool of steam filled with a horrendous stench. The water seems to take on a life of its own and only in brief intermittent moments are you able to capture a photo that isn't filled with steam...

I feel like this almost looks like a painting. It kind of reminds me of a wonderful medieval orchard in Western Europe. Nestled in the middle of a valley and surrounded by mountains lays this gorgeous piece of land. After hiking down a short trail and through the path above, you end up at the view point which you can still make out just a bit in the upper left portion of this photo. From there the area is riddled with signs telling you not to continue and that you were only permitted to go that far. However...

After getting a glimpse of this large hot spring my curiousity was piqued and I could not resist a stroll down the short rocky road to get a closer view and whiff of this amazing mass of water. Far too hot to enter, one could only take in the sight and relax to the sweet smell of sulfuric acid. The water was bubbling so tenaciously that you would not dare attempt to figure out just how hot it was. It was quite the deterrent but at this point in the day the weather had heated up to such a point that the spring was never very appealing to begin with.

Below you'll see a view from the top of the path, it is quite possibly my favorite photograph that I have ever taken. The clouds, mountains, and the way the valley seems to effortlessly transform is breathtaking.

Six months into living in Jakarta and this is who I've become

I thought I'd come up with a list of ten hings I’ve forgotten how to do since living in Indonesia, or at least that’s how I’ll rationalize it. If this is offensive, well, how has your day been?

<       1) How to live without a maid. Now, don’t judge. Maids are so commonplace in Indonesia it’s often odd when people do not have some type of domestic staff working for them. I call my maid Ibu (Mom) and she’s outstanding. I’ve never seen dirty dishes in my sink or dirty laundry on my floor for more than two days, it’s an outstanding situation for someone whose room often looks like homeless man’s street corner smelling like a violation of the BYU honor code.

           2)ow to respect, and follow traffic violations. Hold on a MINUTE! I often speed and talk on the phone while driving back home, but mother of God, the traffic here reeks of a zombie apocalypse at a graveyard (are zombies still, like, kind of popular?) Lanes hardly exist. Drivers Ed? Na, eff that you could just buy it. Helmets on motorbikes? Next. Imagine being a bee surrounded by sheet metal trying to venture through the smell of piss, petrol, and burn hair. Let’s translate this into something a rational literate person can understand; I am scared.

            3) What warm showers feel like? Self-explanatory?

            4) How to go number two without using a bidet. For years I thought toilet paper was sufficient as a remedy for clearing out the residue inside your anus after having a poo. Now, I see it most certainly isn’t. A bidet, I looked it up and it’s French for pony, which will make no sense to you after finishing this. A bidet is basically a water gun attached to either the inside of a toilet in the form of a sprinkler, or to the side in the form of a miniature hose.  The sprinkler type is not as common and it works like this; you turn a faucet on the side of a toilet and position your bum so the water shoots up there, to uh, yeah. The gun is, well, a little bit cooler. You take that sucker from the side and aim it and attack that like a vampire with sunlight. One is meant to use this to clean out your butt and it is great. Of course after the, splashing shall we call it? You should probably use some toilet paper to clear out any remaining fecal matter.

              5) To not be offended by someone asking about my salary, religion, or political opinions. It’s fairly common, maybe just to foreigners, but I’ve been asked these things by acquaintances and people whom I’ve just met much more often than I would normally be comfortable with.

              6) How to eat with silverware and still feel cool. Eating with your hands at a restaurant is fantastic (picture me making the “Here’s Johnny” face from ‘The Shining’ with food all over my face and in my hands) scary? Yes, but ay don’t worry about it.

              7) How to be nice to waiters/service staff. Just kidding, I am always nice and respectful land have made many friends here in restaurants by doing just that, but many people here, as friendly as they are, are so rude to waiters/waitresses. Snapping, yelling, pointing, and ordering aren’t uncommon.

             8) What cold weather feels like? After being in Peru from Winter 2012 to Summer, followed by a Seattle summer and a few months in Costa Rica and now Indonesia… well I guess what I’m trying to say is I am remarkably pale for the type of weather I have been in for the past year.

             9) How to survive without rice. I don’t even know if I ate rice more than the handful of times I was at a Thai restaurant in the states. I probably have rice twice per day and at times more. That’s not to say there isn’t world class cuisine here, as well as your barrage of fast food restaurants from the states and the street food which is outstanding.

           10)   How normal the U.S. is. Seriously, go abroad for a year or so and follow the media as extensively as I do and you’ll see that we come across like complete idiots. I mostly blame the media. Let’s start with the biggest debates in the U.S. political field; Iranian missiles, defending Israel, blocking gay rights, abortion, Barack Obama’s birth certificate, defending our economic interests against Russia and China. I mean, do these things affect anybody’s lives on a day to day basis? For most people it’s hard to say yes and even the important topics shouldn’t even be debatable. The level of intellectual debate is horrendous. That said nobody gets more unfairly criticized overseas than Americans do. We are judged by the atrocities of the Republican and Democratic parties and their influence, as well as the attention they receive is global. Let’s not lie about it very rarely (likely never) will someone judge someone from Finland, Canada, the Netherlands, or New Zealand because of their leaders because most people have no idea who the hell their politicians are and/or have any idea what they do. In a number of places throughout the world people have asked me if I am a Republican or Democrat often times within the first 100 words.  So quit hating on Americans, for being American.